Part II
Travel Diary of Samuel Hastings Stackhouse, 1811

On Sunday morning went with Cousin Smith to Columbia 5 miles up the river to call on Mrs. Hilditch to whom I have a letter from Dr. Staughton.  Arrived at her home.  She is gone to meeting at Duck Creek 3 miles distant.  Conclude to go.  Met with a Col. Marks formerly of New York.  They partly promise to return by way of New Orleans early in the spring.  Advise Ezekie to give the direction of his farm to his mother until his return, which he approves of & intends writing to that effect.  Cousin Smith is much pleased with this country & were it agreeable to his wife he would settle permanently in it.  His disposition towards his mother is that of a dutiful & affectionate son, willing to do anything that would contribute to her happiness.  My Cousin Ezekial is young & perhaps yet giddy.  He however possesses a strong mind, good principles & a disposition, energy of character & a few years experience will probably make him more solid & form his mind in more usefullness.  We should hope that the Lord might bless this migration which he has made to the good of his soul.  Much of the precious seed of the Lord's elect is scattered in this western region.  The power of the Word is yet to declare the great salvation of God.  To many has it come: already to make the wilderness to blossom, and there are many fields which we would hope are nearby ripe unto harvest.

This afternoon at 5 o'clock Mr. Snodgrass & William arrive.  Conclude to set out next day.

Wednesday, 6th of Nov.  Prepare for starting.  William wishes to remain another day--not yet determined.  Mr. S. & Wm. go over to Newport.  We conclude to remain until tomorrow.  Before leaving this state I must notice one feature of their constitution which reflects much honor on the framers of it & I fear will at some future day not very far distant practically assert its policy & virtue to the misery & distress of many of the sister states.  The constitution of the State of Ohio recognizes a general & universal principle of personal liberty.  Slavery is not sanctioned in any shape.  The slave without any exception becomes a freeman on treading the soil of this favoured country.

Thursday morning, 7th Nov.  Rainy, unpleasant weather.  Take breakfast & set out on our journey, recross the Ohio at Cincinatti having previously crossed it at Wheeling.  This becomes necessary from the winding of the river.  Pass over the Dry Ridge & at 2 o'clock arrive at Gaine's, wet & fatigued.  We have come 20 miles & conclude to tarry here.  I have a severe pain in my bones & feel generally unwell.  Retire early to bed with many of the sensations of a wearied traveller.  Have rather a wakeful dreaming half slumbering rest through the night.  Rise at the first glimmer of the morning light & proceed onward.  We have in company Judge Warren of Georgetown, a gentlemanly man who is on his way home from court at Born [Bonn?] Courthouse.  In this vicinity (which is in the State of Kentucky which we entered on crossing the river at Cincinatti) there has been a great revival of religion.  We are informed that upwards of 200 persons have been added to the Babtist Church within the last year.  Arrive at Theobolds, 16 miles, where we breakfast.  Proceed on pass Arnold's brickhouse which looks well but has rather a bad reputation.  Travellers are not very safe with the host.  We pass through rather an indifferent country, the lands not very good & very broken.  Observe a deserted farm on which, we are informed, three entire families have been swept off by disease of a high bilious cast after periods of illness not exceeding 4 or 5 days.  It is supposed there is some very noxious or poisonous quality in the water.  At sunset we arrive at Mr. Nelson's, distance 36 miles.  An excellent house kept by a Virginian who is very attentive & accomodating.  Furnishes us with an excellent supper. On arriving here I find myself in as bad order as the preceding evening. Pain in my bones, to which is added a stiff neck & a disposition to fever. Take some rest & feel better.  We here meet with a General & a senator who are not a little gay & quite anxious that the Judge & myself should try our skill at disputation.  The senator gives a banter in fav. of the judge & the Gerneral takes him up by fixing upon me.  I get off by observing that I am at this time but a foundered nag & unfit for the turf.  Take a dose of [Lees?] pills.  Feel better in the morning & in early season proceed on our journey.  At 12:00 o'clock we arive at Georgetown.  Pass a Babtist meeting house at the Dry Sun 5 miles from this place.  Breakfast at Georgetown.  Again severe pain in my bones with the landlord tells me is the Logas.  This is a small town containing about 60 or 70 houses scattered with a beautiful & finely improved country around it.  Called on Major Gano & deliver my letter from Mr. Page.  Am treated with much politeness.  he is very urgent for us to remain with him until the morrow.  Introduces me to Mr. Pitts, a man of large property & business who has an extensive factory of cotton bagging. He is about starting for Natches & New Orleans & promises to meet us at Nashville.  Major Gano discovers a disposition to be useful to me, engages to correspond with him.  My introduction to him was a very special nature.  My friend Page gave a large latitude in expressing himself.

Spend a few hours in Georgetown and with difficulty get away at about 4 o'clock.  Pass through a beautiful country to Lexington where we arrive a little after dark & put up at Postlewaits Hotel.  I am quite unwell, severe pains & some fever.  Bathe my feet, dissolve a quarter pound of salts, take part at night & the balance in the morning. Retire early to bed.

Sunday morning, the 10 Nov.  I feel much better.  Enquire after places of worship.  Find them to be a Presbyterian, Episcopal & Methodist.  Intend going to the first but by some mistake get to the latter.  In the afternoon I go to the Presbyterian Church where I am much pleased & edified with the preaching of a Mr. McCord who is a covenenter or a seceeder & is at this time itinerating.  He preached from Luke, "Whosoever shall be ashamed of me & my word of him shall the Son of man be ashamed when he shall come in the glory of his presence."  This preacher appears to have the real root of the matter in him, preaching boldly & with plainness, his language scriptural & well chsen, his doctrine in my view clear & distinguishing.  I could wish that he might itinerate as far as New Orleans.  Return home, take supper & retire to my room.  Receive a letter at this place from Mr. Bower, New York.  Expect one from my Mary but am disappointed.

The greatest objection to the country between this place & the Ohio & also the neighborhood of Cincinatti is the limestone water.  The springs all run through veins of limestone & the water is strongly impregnated with that quality which is unpalatable & injurious.

This town has been settled about 20 years contains about 7000 inhabitants.  The buildings are chiefly of brick & the streets well laid out.  Lexington exhibits much liveliness in business.  Here are several rope walks, bagging factories, etc.  The stores are large & respectable.  The public buildings are a courthouse, bank, insurance office.  There are also four places of worship the Presbyterian, Methodist, Episcopal & Babtist.  The building of the first is tolerable good & very commodious.  The Babtists do not assemble here every Sabbath.  I have much to say about them in this state, but which I shall defer for the present.

On Monday morning, 11 Nov.  Set out early.  Find myself considerably reoriented.  Go to Nicholasville, a small town 12 miles from L.  to breakfast where we see a waggonload of cotton from Augusta, Georgia.  They receive many of their supplies in this vicinage from Augusta: such as sugar, rice, coffee, etc.  The wagons go out loaded with bagging, bale rope, etc. & return with those articles or cotton.  Proceed on 8 miles & cross Kentucky River.  Notice the high & picturesque cliffs of a bluish cast which are of amazing height, regularly perpendicular from the river & might resemble the great wall of China.  Proceed on.  At 7 miles from Kentucky River cross Dix River, a very handsome stream, bottomed & bounded by rock & portenting a wild [or mild?] & romantic view.  The country through which we pass this day is well improved.  Pass a great number of very handsome farms. Arrive at Danville, a flourishing little town some 32 miles from Lexington.  Put up at Col. Davenport's large brick house.

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